Salchipapas

We have traveled many, many hours down, up, and around busted and rock splendored roads through the green Ecuadorian Andes. Switch backs have stained our eyes and endless ear-pounding Latin music forever rings in our ears as we continually stare in awe of the mountainous beauty. We have seen heaps of what must have been burned brush, previously jungle/forest, and now squared portions of land at 50 degree angles growing bananas, papayas, custard apples, cocoa beans, and many other plants which may never have a name. On flatter land, I enjoy the lush, bright green pop of green, also separated into usually squared paddocks…rice. Homes in the Ecuadorian hills and small towns are most often cement blocked walls, open windows, and ½ the homes are painted with fading political slander of sorts. I`m curious of the pay these cocoa bean collecting people receive.

After an 18 hour process of roaming between boarders, Sam and I in prevailing(previously trampled and thirsty) spirits, finally made it to paved, twisting roads of Northern Peru. This was just 60 Kilometers before reaching our half destination of Loja. My impression thus far is that Peru is a bit more advanced, and I will share with you the moment this really hit me:
An image often seen here is children, men, or even older (4 ft) women with a long stick herding cattle on the side (or center) of roads. After a few hours of cruising South beyond the boarder, I noted a man on a horse (indeed with a saddle, which is not always the case) doing the same job, herding cattle. This was the momentary image that shifted my thoughts of advancement. In all of Ecuador, the only animal Sam and I saw people riding was a donkey, horses being wild.

Peru immediately shines in an altered light, of course the noted currency change to Soles, but also the lack of 10% meal tipping, the Pollerias (chicken restaurants, 1/8, ¼, ½ lb option with papas…potatoes fried or baked), more smiles and hearing many more “que tals,” meaning what`s up. I have been encouraged a few times to try the local favorite drink, pisco sour, please take a moment to look up what the Peruvian version is made of. Just yesterday we had our first real taste of ancient intrigue. It was a smaller and localized civilization from 500AD, remaining limestone ruins. It consisted of massively tall limestone portioned walls, narrow entrance ways with sacred animal carvings, and at the top of the land beyond the entrance; circular limestone houses with 2 stone-laces holes, one for mummified bodies to stay with the family in their home, and the other for storage of personal items below ground. This 600 meter by 200 meter encompassed community is in Kuelap, though the people are called Chachapoyans, and they worked collectively on this massive civilized home for hundreds of people for almost 1000 years. Limestone pieces carried by hand, a one week walk before arriving to their unloading point atop the mountain. Our guide shared that this project of its time is easily comparable to the mass project and material carrying of The Great Pyramids, though smaller scale. The community came to a halt after fighting the encroaching Incas, and soon after, the Spanish Conquistadors. Spaniards brought small pox, and all efforts came to an end, along with each and every Chachapoyan here.

Tomorrow, if all goes as planned, which is often not the case because of highly chaotic transport, we will reach the coast. A few degrees lower than our current position is a place of interest called Trujillo. I hope for less chilling evenings so my hand-washed delicates can dry, if nothing else. Salute to always having clean, boiled water…and seeing the Pacific again soon!