Oh, what one can do with 40 hours. From the 11th to the 13th Sam and I took 4 different vehicles from Salta, into Chile, to the Peruvian southern boarder, and a long haul back through the Andes North to Lake Titicaca en la ciudad de Puno. I will tell you, for this next 10 hour journey, we chose the expensive bus, costing 48$, which was not the case before.
With this said, one can see that we did not make it into Brazil or Paraguay. I have strong feelings that if I do indeed return to SA one day, Bolivia and Brazil will be the places for me to go.
I loved Argentina, though as I stated, the language was very challenging. Cafayate would be said ´cah-fie-schya-tay´ leaving me with the understanding of very very little. The views were fantastically not desert, as Sam and I had been getting a bit bored with the endless sand views of southern Peru. We had our fix of the charmed-Argentinian-food, steak! It was 3x as expensive as any meal we hade ever gotten down here, Sam ordering a proper thick steak, and myself ordering the ´personal grill´…not really knowing what would come. I got about 6 favietied of grilled meat, some this, some round, some thick and fatty. My stomach was so loaded with Vino (its wine country in San Pedro!) steak portions, Sam took a stab at the remaining dark, thick link on my personal grill…..it was blood sausage. I feel strongly that this should not exist, and I feel a bit naucious thinking about it and the bits that fluffed up the inside. So gross.
I was happy that we were able to take a colectivo across the Chilean boarder this time around, 5 of us in one prívate car, a sweet lady who took care of ½ the business, only costing us $6usd for the 90 minute trip! We have enjoyed getting to know the Lake Titicaca town of Puno, and are re-enjoying the vast amountas of street vendors and weekend markets of this town. There isn´t much of a beauty-view from the cement walkways which we have access to, just next to the lake (burnt tall grass between, with of course scattered rubbish). Fortunately whilst taking the 4 hour trip to some local ruins, we had a wonderful birds eye view of Puno and the Lake.
Today we visit a bit of a favorite town, arriving at 19pm, Huacachina! I love this lagoon surrounded by massive mounds of sand dunes, lots of sun, and charming places toe at. Lima, see you in 3 days.
15 August, 2010
03 August, 2010
Chilly Chile
The title says it all for the moment, though I do despise focusing on weather. Last night the waiter stated that it gets to negative 10 below zero (celcius) at night here, and I certainly believe it. I spotted ice in a shaded drainage spot this morning whilst searching for food. Mind you, I think I got sunburned this afternoon...this all speaks for the surrounding desert I suppose.
We are still in the desert. I somehow still have a hard time believing this is true, it begining with a sense of surprise Mid-Peru, and it just seems to continue into Chile through everything I have seen. We are in a dropped-in-the-center-of-the-desert town called San Pedro de Atacama currently, awaiting a morning bus to take Sam and myself into Salta, Argentina. I also have felt a sense of surprise by the bus prices doubling here in Chile. I just didn´t see it coming.
Chileans thus far are seemingly more helpful than my fellow Peruvians, and know a bit more English...maybe that is what we are paying for. These statements should not count against those to the North, it is simply my immediate comparison of personality coming out. An even larger and more siginificant noted change is the Westernization. There is far less ´traditional´feel here in Chile, the people in more modern dress, nary a baby wrapped around women´s backs, and certainly less street vendors...creating a much more formal environment to wander. It´s both odd and comforting. Lastly, I have to note that my Spanish skills in Peru were feeling ok, and my anxiety of communication was lessening by the day, but conversation number 1 in Arica, Chile cut me right back down. I have indeed figured out that they only say 2/3 of each word, but this makes it soo much more challenging for a basic speaker like myself. I has gone from Buenos Tardes, to Buenos, to Buen.....holy language shortage.
Since crossing the boarder into Northern Chile, both Sam and my health have improved, fortunately. I was getting such a negative feeling towards any food intake, and not I am back wanting to fill my stomach. yes!
Oh, did I tell you about Machu Picchu? It was immense and awesome to wander for 5 hours. Sam and I brought the train in from a town called Ollantaytambo, just over an hour to do such. 27th of July written in my journal about the day and what I learned:
It was a long, but lovely day. It was a great peak into the elaborate living of the Incan people. The ruins were endless to explore, relax on the grassy, wide steps, admire the stone laid by hand. There was sun, a little critter called Viscushe, and also 2 friendly French men. Many Americans scattered the grounds, as well as British, and Peruvians alike.
1911 it was ´discovered´ by a Yale-man, whom was being led by a local young boy. It was covered in green, overgrown foilage. This built spot in the Andean Mountains was by and for the 9th group of Incans (I don´t know much about the numbers of groups that existed). 25 years of Incan leadership, and the youthful leader of these people overtook all the mountain-land on the West-coast Peru, and into both the Northern Chilean desert and Southern Ecuadorian mountains. Civil wars and conquistadors did the entire civilization in.
Coca Tea is my favorite.
We are still in the desert. I somehow still have a hard time believing this is true, it begining with a sense of surprise Mid-Peru, and it just seems to continue into Chile through everything I have seen. We are in a dropped-in-the-center-of-the-desert town called San Pedro de Atacama currently, awaiting a morning bus to take Sam and myself into Salta, Argentina. I also have felt a sense of surprise by the bus prices doubling here in Chile. I just didn´t see it coming.
Chileans thus far are seemingly more helpful than my fellow Peruvians, and know a bit more English...maybe that is what we are paying for. These statements should not count against those to the North, it is simply my immediate comparison of personality coming out. An even larger and more siginificant noted change is the Westernization. There is far less ´traditional´feel here in Chile, the people in more modern dress, nary a baby wrapped around women´s backs, and certainly less street vendors...creating a much more formal environment to wander. It´s both odd and comforting. Lastly, I have to note that my Spanish skills in Peru were feeling ok, and my anxiety of communication was lessening by the day, but conversation number 1 in Arica, Chile cut me right back down. I have indeed figured out that they only say 2/3 of each word, but this makes it soo much more challenging for a basic speaker like myself. I has gone from Buenos Tardes, to Buenos, to Buen.....holy language shortage.
Since crossing the boarder into Northern Chile, both Sam and my health have improved, fortunately. I was getting such a negative feeling towards any food intake, and not I am back wanting to fill my stomach. yes!
Oh, did I tell you about Machu Picchu? It was immense and awesome to wander for 5 hours. Sam and I brought the train in from a town called Ollantaytambo, just over an hour to do such. 27th of July written in my journal about the day and what I learned:
It was a long, but lovely day. It was a great peak into the elaborate living of the Incan people. The ruins were endless to explore, relax on the grassy, wide steps, admire the stone laid by hand. There was sun, a little critter called Viscushe, and also 2 friendly French men. Many Americans scattered the grounds, as well as British, and Peruvians alike.
1911 it was ´discovered´ by a Yale-man, whom was being led by a local young boy. It was covered in green, overgrown foilage. This built spot in the Andean Mountains was by and for the 9th group of Incans (I don´t know much about the numbers of groups that existed). 25 years of Incan leadership, and the youthful leader of these people overtook all the mountain-land on the West-coast Peru, and into both the Northern Chilean desert and Southern Ecuadorian mountains. Civil wars and conquistadors did the entire civilization in.
Coca Tea is my favorite.
20 July, 2010
Hotel España
Lima is massive. It's not so histle and bustle, but there's people and shops everywhere as you may expect. Sam and I are happy ot wander today, day 2 here, thanks to having the GPS Ben hooked us up with! Today consisted of getting at bus ticket to a town called Ica in the morning, and we will catch a quick bus to a town called Huacachina...Sand boarding on the dunes!! 3 soles per hour, a fair deal indeed.
There was a second historic civilization of sorts Sam and I were able to explore less than a week back. The people were known as Chiva, but the place amongst the desert is called Chan Chan. The previously 4 meter high mud-brick walls are now maybe 2 meters or less, thanks to rain and the unforgiving wind. The people who lived here for maybe 700 years were also more or less destroyed by the Incas, by 1100AC...what terrors they were! I enjoyed the remaining carvings, only images, because these people also did not have written language. Main images were representatives of the 3 main important aspects in life: land, sea, and water. The sea was fished daily, so near by, and pelicans were adored whilst soaring in the sky. Another image often seen was an animal, said to be an old squirrell by Peruvians, though American Archeologists believe it to be a sea otter. not the same.
This area of Huanchan (beach-surf town) and Trujillo (larger city on the other side of Chan Chan) was quite comical to travel between. It begins with not understanding the repetative phrases the bus-driver-assistant is constantly shouting, but the best part is the bus not actually ever coming to a full stop. Unless you're an older lady or a young lady carrying a baby (always wrapped in a colorful blanket, tied to their back). The bus price is approximated, and Sam and I eventually figured it to be 1.50sole each for one way.
As I sit here, I'm reminded of the other ridiculous transport relation we have not avoided. Constant beeping, beeping for movement, beeping for attention, beeping for thank you's, beeping for who else knows what. Do not move a finger, or the taxi will stop.
My favorite bus trip yet by far was from Huanchaco to Lima here, 10 hours. There was such an immense range of visuals here, beginning with the white capped mountains, to middle-eastern-esk rolling desert, to brown-grassed prarie land, back into agriculture-ridden green-scape. The bonus was 2 movies in English, which has never happened before. This bus was indeed luxury, a meal included, but never are the films in English! Avatar was the latter :)
I'm beginning to process 2 theorys of living here, progression and continued renovation of land...ie burning nature; and also preservation, which is a much newer concept, and also a greater theory to Westerners. I see the local (rural) trying and trying to catch up and do (primarily agriculture) things make their lives seemingly better, but I see simplicity actally trumping it all in the end. Nuturingf nature away from green? I hardly see it as progression. This is my heignsight and reflection of the Westernized living.
In other news, Sam I finally found new food, beyon chicken and hot chips. Chivas! Chinese food, though the spanish menu still greatly challenges me. I learned chauva yesterday, implying stir-fry. Everyday is something new, and 30,000 things to learn. Wishing I had a photographic memory...
There was a second historic civilization of sorts Sam and I were able to explore less than a week back. The people were known as Chiva, but the place amongst the desert is called Chan Chan. The previously 4 meter high mud-brick walls are now maybe 2 meters or less, thanks to rain and the unforgiving wind. The people who lived here for maybe 700 years were also more or less destroyed by the Incas, by 1100AC...what terrors they were! I enjoyed the remaining carvings, only images, because these people also did not have written language. Main images were representatives of the 3 main important aspects in life: land, sea, and water. The sea was fished daily, so near by, and pelicans were adored whilst soaring in the sky. Another image often seen was an animal, said to be an old squirrell by Peruvians, though American Archeologists believe it to be a sea otter. not the same.
This area of Huanchan (beach-surf town) and Trujillo (larger city on the other side of Chan Chan) was quite comical to travel between. It begins with not understanding the repetative phrases the bus-driver-assistant is constantly shouting, but the best part is the bus not actually ever coming to a full stop. Unless you're an older lady or a young lady carrying a baby (always wrapped in a colorful blanket, tied to their back). The bus price is approximated, and Sam and I eventually figured it to be 1.50sole each for one way.
As I sit here, I'm reminded of the other ridiculous transport relation we have not avoided. Constant beeping, beeping for movement, beeping for attention, beeping for thank you's, beeping for who else knows what. Do not move a finger, or the taxi will stop.
My favorite bus trip yet by far was from Huanchaco to Lima here, 10 hours. There was such an immense range of visuals here, beginning with the white capped mountains, to middle-eastern-esk rolling desert, to brown-grassed prarie land, back into agriculture-ridden green-scape. The bonus was 2 movies in English, which has never happened before. This bus was indeed luxury, a meal included, but never are the films in English! Avatar was the latter :)
I'm beginning to process 2 theorys of living here, progression and continued renovation of land...ie burning nature; and also preservation, which is a much newer concept, and also a greater theory to Westerners. I see the local (rural) trying and trying to catch up and do (primarily agriculture) things make their lives seemingly better, but I see simplicity actally trumping it all in the end. Nuturingf nature away from green? I hardly see it as progression. This is my heignsight and reflection of the Westernized living.
In other news, Sam I finally found new food, beyon chicken and hot chips. Chivas! Chinese food, though the spanish menu still greatly challenges me. I learned chauva yesterday, implying stir-fry. Everyday is something new, and 30,000 things to learn. Wishing I had a photographic memory...
12 July, 2010
Salchipapas
We have traveled many, many hours down, up, and around busted and rock splendored roads through the green Ecuadorian Andes. Switch backs have stained our eyes and endless ear-pounding Latin music forever rings in our ears as we continually stare in awe of the mountainous beauty. We have seen heaps of what must have been burned brush, previously jungle/forest, and now squared portions of land at 50 degree angles growing bananas, papayas, custard apples, cocoa beans, and many other plants which may never have a name. On flatter land, I enjoy the lush, bright green pop of green, also separated into usually squared paddocks…rice. Homes in the Ecuadorian hills and small towns are most often cement blocked walls, open windows, and ½ the homes are painted with fading political slander of sorts. I`m curious of the pay these cocoa bean collecting people receive.
After an 18 hour process of roaming between boarders, Sam and I in prevailing(previously trampled and thirsty) spirits, finally made it to paved, twisting roads of Northern Peru. This was just 60 Kilometers before reaching our half destination of Loja. My impression thus far is that Peru is a bit more advanced, and I will share with you the moment this really hit me:
An image often seen here is children, men, or even older (4 ft) women with a long stick herding cattle on the side (or center) of roads. After a few hours of cruising South beyond the boarder, I noted a man on a horse (indeed with a saddle, which is not always the case) doing the same job, herding cattle. This was the momentary image that shifted my thoughts of advancement. In all of Ecuador, the only animal Sam and I saw people riding was a donkey, horses being wild.
Peru immediately shines in an altered light, of course the noted currency change to Soles, but also the lack of 10% meal tipping, the Pollerias (chicken restaurants, 1/8, ¼, ½ lb option with papas…potatoes fried or baked), more smiles and hearing many more “que tals,” meaning what`s up. I have been encouraged a few times to try the local favorite drink, pisco sour, please take a moment to look up what the Peruvian version is made of. Just yesterday we had our first real taste of ancient intrigue. It was a smaller and localized civilization from 500AD, remaining limestone ruins. It consisted of massively tall limestone portioned walls, narrow entrance ways with sacred animal carvings, and at the top of the land beyond the entrance; circular limestone houses with 2 stone-laces holes, one for mummified bodies to stay with the family in their home, and the other for storage of personal items below ground. This 600 meter by 200 meter encompassed community is in Kuelap, though the people are called Chachapoyans, and they worked collectively on this massive civilized home for hundreds of people for almost 1000 years. Limestone pieces carried by hand, a one week walk before arriving to their unloading point atop the mountain. Our guide shared that this project of its time is easily comparable to the mass project and material carrying of The Great Pyramids, though smaller scale. The community came to a halt after fighting the encroaching Incas, and soon after, the Spanish Conquistadors. Spaniards brought small pox, and all efforts came to an end, along with each and every Chachapoyan here.
Tomorrow, if all goes as planned, which is often not the case because of highly chaotic transport, we will reach the coast. A few degrees lower than our current position is a place of interest called Trujillo. I hope for less chilling evenings so my hand-washed delicates can dry, if nothing else. Salute to always having clean, boiled water…and seeing the Pacific again soon!
After an 18 hour process of roaming between boarders, Sam and I in prevailing(previously trampled and thirsty) spirits, finally made it to paved, twisting roads of Northern Peru. This was just 60 Kilometers before reaching our half destination of Loja. My impression thus far is that Peru is a bit more advanced, and I will share with you the moment this really hit me:
An image often seen here is children, men, or even older (4 ft) women with a long stick herding cattle on the side (or center) of roads. After a few hours of cruising South beyond the boarder, I noted a man on a horse (indeed with a saddle, which is not always the case) doing the same job, herding cattle. This was the momentary image that shifted my thoughts of advancement. In all of Ecuador, the only animal Sam and I saw people riding was a donkey, horses being wild.
Peru immediately shines in an altered light, of course the noted currency change to Soles, but also the lack of 10% meal tipping, the Pollerias (chicken restaurants, 1/8, ¼, ½ lb option with papas…potatoes fried or baked), more smiles and hearing many more “que tals,” meaning what`s up. I have been encouraged a few times to try the local favorite drink, pisco sour, please take a moment to look up what the Peruvian version is made of. Just yesterday we had our first real taste of ancient intrigue. It was a smaller and localized civilization from 500AD, remaining limestone ruins. It consisted of massively tall limestone portioned walls, narrow entrance ways with sacred animal carvings, and at the top of the land beyond the entrance; circular limestone houses with 2 stone-laces holes, one for mummified bodies to stay with the family in their home, and the other for storage of personal items below ground. This 600 meter by 200 meter encompassed community is in Kuelap, though the people are called Chachapoyans, and they worked collectively on this massive civilized home for hundreds of people for almost 1000 years. Limestone pieces carried by hand, a one week walk before arriving to their unloading point atop the mountain. Our guide shared that this project of its time is easily comparable to the mass project and material carrying of The Great Pyramids, though smaller scale. The community came to a halt after fighting the encroaching Incas, and soon after, the Spanish Conquistadors. Spaniards brought small pox, and all efforts came to an end, along with each and every Chachapoyan here.
Tomorrow, if all goes as planned, which is often not the case because of highly chaotic transport, we will reach the coast. A few degrees lower than our current position is a place of interest called Trujillo. I hope for less chilling evenings so my hand-washed delicates can dry, if nothing else. Salute to always having clean, boiled water…and seeing the Pacific again soon!
01 July, 2010
como se dicé...
Quito is normalizing, I consider this to be a good thing. As I´m typing this and ideas are swimming around in my head, so are misc. spanish words. Sam is becoming more apt to learning some words and phrases en espanol because he has been having little to no communication with any Ecuadorians... It has been a challenge already for language, and I´m thankful for the amount that I can get through to these lovely Quitorian people. So few know any English, which somehow was initially surprising for me. ¿te hable ingles?
Quito is a missive city, narrow streets layed with cobble-stone, people sporting such a range of traditional to a more young-trendy look, mostly all people just a bit shorter than I. We are staying in what is called Old Town Quito (Flores street), the non-backpacker part, thus more authentic indeed. We appreciate this aspect. Also- not too many stares in our direction, in a positive/surprising way.
Sam and I look forward to the towns we are going to embark on in the next week, much smaller and less confusing physically/geographically...Peurto Lopez tomorrow night...miramos tu en Sabado! I want to wear a sign apologizing for broken Spanish. Today Sam and I made a ridiculous trip on the local electric-tram 45 minutes South (for 50 cents total each way) to sort out train tickets for this first shift tomorrow. This will be an 11 hour night bus-ride, costing $12! We chose this spot to see both the Pacific Ocean and explore a national park just near Puerto Lopez.
Bueno Noches para ahora.
Quito is a missive city, narrow streets layed with cobble-stone, people sporting such a range of traditional to a more young-trendy look, mostly all people just a bit shorter than I. We are staying in what is called Old Town Quito (Flores street), the non-backpacker part, thus more authentic indeed. We appreciate this aspect. Also- not too many stares in our direction, in a positive/surprising way.
Sam and I look forward to the towns we are going to embark on in the next week, much smaller and less confusing physically/geographically...Peurto Lopez tomorrow night...miramos tu en Sabado! I want to wear a sign apologizing for broken Spanish. Today Sam and I made a ridiculous trip on the local electric-tram 45 minutes South (for 50 cents total each way) to sort out train tickets for this first shift tomorrow. This will be an 11 hour night bus-ride, costing $12! We chose this spot to see both the Pacific Ocean and explore a national park just near Puerto Lopez.
Bueno Noches para ahora.
12 June, 2010
2 weeks, 2 days.
The time is sneaking up to depart, but there's still a lot to be a part of before Sam and I step onto yet another airplane. There is indeed Sam's arrival, a best-friend's wedding, visits to a newly-born family member, and of course whatever happens in between!
The intention, as far as planning goes, is almost fully dependent on the natural flow of local transport and use of our momentary 'back-packer-sense.' A chosen route is far from definite, but our landing point is Quito, Ecuador. Sam and I will be making a loop of sorts, moving South of Ecuador: Peru, Chile, Argentina, Paraguay, Brazil, and then somehow back to Quito. Full circle.
I've created a project of sorts, a facet of learning for the children in the school I work at; Four Corners Montessori Academy, in Madison Heights, MI. I have asked for a list of questions from each classroom, being cultural queries, geographical, comparative/reflective, religious, transportation, communication, or anything else that has surfaced in their minds. My plan is to video these questions, asked directly to local people. I have found time and time again that local knowledge is priceless when on the move with a single back-pack. I feel great excitement to have the ability and opportunity to share this fresh wealth of information and awareness.
In Peace and Roam,
Merry Gavin
The intention, as far as planning goes, is almost fully dependent on the natural flow of local transport and use of our momentary 'back-packer-sense.' A chosen route is far from definite, but our landing point is Quito, Ecuador. Sam and I will be making a loop of sorts, moving South of Ecuador: Peru, Chile, Argentina, Paraguay, Brazil, and then somehow back to Quito. Full circle.
I've created a project of sorts, a facet of learning for the children in the school I work at; Four Corners Montessori Academy, in Madison Heights, MI. I have asked for a list of questions from each classroom, being cultural queries, geographical, comparative/reflective, religious, transportation, communication, or anything else that has surfaced in their minds. My plan is to video these questions, asked directly to local people. I have found time and time again that local knowledge is priceless when on the move with a single back-pack. I feel great excitement to have the ability and opportunity to share this fresh wealth of information and awareness.
In Peace and Roam,
Merry Gavin
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